Space: 1999 Alpha Moonbase

JD
I know I'm just asking for trouble with this one..

James Barrett
Dude! I have that in my backlog. You gotta let me know how it goes!!

Starbase101
Queue up the funky 70's music......

Chaz Gordon
What's with the giant moon trench through the middle of the base???

Ben M
Can't miss this

JD
Ok, let the discussion begin.. 😄 So the base is two very thin and frail vacuum-formed shells, which will need to be first reinforced and then cut and joined in the middle, and then mounted on a substrate. Probably foam. My crazy plan is to light this baby with fiber optics and clear cast, back-lit control panels. Then I want a sound board with the first season theme song, and other sounds, and then hang the whole thing on the wall.. Please feel free to encourage me because well, this build is partly for you, my Scalemates 😉

Ben M
MAKE IT SO

Skyhiker
I'm in

Bernd Korte
"May the force be with you!" - oops--wrong franchise! But nevertheless, I'm sure it'll turn out great!

Torsten
This sounds good to me and appreciate you make it for your scm, I looking forward to an interesting challenge and building process😎

JD
I'm going to try using plaster bandages reinforced with Modpodge, hoping for a hard shell..

Konstantinos Xenos
What about purring resin in the moulds or plaster of Paris? to make them rock solid.

Stéphane Jayet
Good luck with this one, I will definitely follow the progress !

Starbase101
I wouldn't recommend resin inside the vacuum-formed shells unless you're able to find one that doesn't generate heat as it cures. A cheap and light-weight way to do it could be a can of expanding foam insulation. Don't overfill, and it sands easily for flattening the bottom (a few full sheets of sandpaper attached to a large flat surface). Your fibers will push right through the foam, or you can easily make holes for them with a metal rod.

Chaz Gordon
I would advise double checking the spacing of parts that fit across the join, best even to temporarily fit them while joining the halves. I'd go with a plaster mix (or even water mix decorating filler) to level out the indents in the back, then araldite (90 minute) a sheet of plywood to fill the cavity. Seal the edges of the ply with some more Araldite. Once that's all dry, and assuming the ply is a fairly close fit, some automotive filler to fill in any gaps, or even some silicone sealant.

JD
First layer of plaster cloth applied. In theory this should dry rock hard, as they use this to help set broken bones.

Starbase101
How well does the Mod Podge hold to the plastic? I've only used it with paper...

Christian Lehmann
👍

JD
I've been messing around with ModPodge for a while now, it's a form of PVA glue with unique properties in that it dries hard to form a protective shell on whatever, and is water resistant, and allows for many texture and painting techniques. A worthwhile study for anyone interested in creating dioramas.

Chaz Gordon
an FYI for ModPodge, I use this on my Wooden boxes and christmas ornaments.If laid on thick, it works as a nice Scenery glue for Grass/Snow/Dirt, although probably not as good as Scenery Glue. You can also put Vallejo Acrylic Varnishes over it without any reactions. The only issue I have found is that on some stuff, ModPodge remains tacky for a long time after "Drying" in one case, several Months. Hence the discovery that Vallejo does not react.

JD
So the plaster bandages worked very well at adding structure to the base, and while it was drying, I got busy cleaning up all the parts, getting them ready for paint, and working out the layout. Next I'll need to research and choose what colors to use. I have also ordered a programmable sound chip to install and play the theme song on.

JD
The theme song is loaded onto the chip. This so cool already! Now I have to mount the base onto the foam, and decide if I want to go the extra mile and figure out how to add lighting effects..

Ben M
I wanted this kit when I was a kid but it would have been beyond my capabilities. I enjoy watching you do justice to it!

JD
Thanks for the encouragement Ben!

Greg Baker
That's cool! I love the sound chip. I've got a similar idea, so I'm watching closely.

James Barrett
Keep it up! This looks like it is going to be awesome!!!

JD
Any thoughts on how to achieve this lighting effect? 🤔

Starbase101
Hire Brian Johnson....?

JD
Ouch, too right! Ok then how do we help a mate pay tribute to Brian Johnson, smarty pants?

Starbase101
If it were my project (and someday it will be - I just got the "correct" version of the kit last week, with 5 launch pads instead of 3)....I'd be doing it with the smallest available fiber optic and warm white LEDs.

JD
A vote for fiber optics then hmm, yes that's certainly one way of doing it... a couple of leds with bushels of fibers glued onto them, etc.The Moonbase Alpha studio model has undergone many changes and evolutions and iterations (thank you) throughout the television series, including this early version with only 3 launch pads. There are no "correct versions " and in fact, there are only 2 versions of a Space 1999 Moonbase Alpha kit to begin with! I have no doubt that you might finish a kit "someday"😉

Starbase101
Well, if interested, you can browse through a history of Space:1999 model kits at catacombs.space1999...n/merc/vmmalpha.html and the Moonbase Alpha wiki at moonbasealpha.fandom..se_Alpha#Launch_pads and then decide for yourself. In short, it's generally accepted that the 3-pads release wasn't an accurate model and was later revised by Round2 in an attempt to improve the accuracy. There are still issues with the Round2 kit but overall it's a better (and larger) representation of the studio miniature. (And yes, the studio miniature and interior sets changed throughout the series, especially at the start of season 2.)

JD
Nonetheless, I think my rendition of this kit will be enough to make me happy, not that it matters to you, or anyone else who may be interested in my build, with your very high expectations of "accuracy" Youtube Video

playtime 222
Er.... I was wondering why I was looking at an exploded view of a Millenium Falcon in progress... then I looked closer. So... What does an Eagle look like in that scale?

JD
Hey playtime 222, you can see them in pic #7

Starbase101
I never intended to infer a sub-par build. I've been following all your builds because each one has been a great-looking model and I learn new things from your projects. All I meant was there are two "versions" of this kit and that I've got the 5-pad version. (It was your build right here which even motivated me to buy the kit.) Like your awesome Delorean build that I've got bookmarked for future reference, I've been watching this one too anticipating the same wonderful results that you've achieved with your previous kits. That's why I suggested fiber optics - any other approach to the lighting probably wouldn't have the windows lit up uniformly.

Chaz Gordon
I have to grin at the discussion of "accuracy" of models from a show that was such a gigantic inaccuracy in it's physics model. As Isaac Asimov observed, a propulsive event of the magnitude needed to move the moon to solar system escape velocity, occurring on the far side of the moon, as it was in the show, would have propelled the moon straight into planet earth, accepting of course that somehow it was delivered in a controlled enough fashion to not shatter the moon instantly.

It's also noted that the velocity of the moon was such that abandoning the moon and heading back to Earth was not possible, but it remained possible for the Eagles to explore random planets that it passed, and still be able to catch up with the moon on return.

And yes, I know they later retconned that the moon was passing through "Space warps" and Black holes to get around, but it would still have maintained it's inherent inertia.

But, it was a great show, and they didn't have the organisation to get scientific advisors on board to make the science realistic, or a technical manual to keep the pseudo science consistent. And the Eagles were super cool ships despite having nowhere at all to store the volume of chemical propellant required to fuel their chemical landing/ascent rockets.

Chaz Gordon
On the lighting discussion, assuming the parts of the base have a sufficient capacity, i'd say there are a couple of options in addition to Fibre:

1: Paint the interior in a thick coat of black primer, and then line with Tin Foil. Drill the windows from the outside into this after foiling to prevent clogging the window holes. Then set up several frosted white LEDs inside to spread unidirectional light that will show to the outside.

2: Same steps as above without the LEDs, but possibly (would need a test run on something) fill the cavity with Clear 2 part resin.
when set, either sand the bottom of the resin to give a frosted surface and light from below, or set frosted LEDs into the resin, maybe even wile it's wet, to use the resin as a light pipe.
The resin approach would require wrapping the exterior of the parts in something to keep the resin it, such as masking tape, but I suspect the resin would stick to it and cause issues. The window holes could first be plugged with clear UV resin to get a nice clear surface on the outside.

James Barrett
alternatively to lining it with tin foil, you could spray it with metallic paint, that should keep any light from slipping through.

playtime 222
Pretty detailed for the size. And yeah, even at age 10 i knew the moon couldn't get around like that.

playtime 222
Oh and the wife figured out the pic too. Space 1999 was a thing in Ethiopia in the 80s. One of her fave childhood programs cos ofMaya

JD
My apologies Starbase 101, I thought for a second you were messing with my Zen thing, man! But then you go and say such nice things 🙂 Youtube Video

JD
Anyway, 😄 I was first thinking about what Chaz and James first suggested, placing leds inside the buildings and after doing some tests, extensive light-blocking would be required vs. end-lit fiber optics, as Starbase 101 suggests, for uniformity. (Ultimately the better and easier method) I want to run as few leds as possible off a 2x AA battery pack, and say 20 lights per bldg, so 200 .5 mm holes? 🤔 So how does one prepare leds, and then glue bunches of fiber optics onto them and then encapsulate everything with heat shrink tubing? I don't know..yet 😉

Starbase101
You don't need to glue the fibers directly to the LEDs. That's so 1998! This is 1999 - you can use a short length of brass or aluminum tube as a sheath over the LED and fibers, which will hold the fibers bundled as well as light-block the LEDs. Because of the scale of this kit, I would use the tiniest fiber that you're comfortable with drilling holes for.

JD
I've just found a vid showing someone doing as you describe using only a shrink wrap tube, hmm, the learning continues.. I need to experiment. Then how do you set the optics in the holes? with some kind of clear glue?

Starbase101
Don't use CA (it will melt the fiber), instead something mild like white glue or canopy glue. At the diameter you'll be using I wouldn't recommend an epoxy either (the curing heat could damage the fiber). Heat-shrink tubing can work for the LED coupling, but if you're building in such a way that you'll have access to the LEDs afterwards then metal tubes would be easier for exchanging burnouts if any happen. Have your fibers extend out from the windows by a good half inch or more, paint right over them when painting the buildings, then trim them flush with nippers at the end.

JD
What I like most about Space: 1999 besides the imaginative storytelling and the almost believable technology of the time, are the real stars of the show, the scale models, and the makers behind them. Practical effects and set design with a funky retro vibe that still captures my imagination today

JD
Thank you for some great advice! I will now attempt this incredible feat of engineering..

Starbase101
Be sure to include a crashed Eagle somewhere half-covered with moondust - it seemed that calamity happened nearly every episode! (Gotta wonder how the Alphans didn't run out Eagles before the series ended!) 😄

Chaz Gordon
In pursuit of accuracy, you should ensure the model ends up in a different place every week with no good explanation of how it got there.

JD
Adding some color changing leds in main mission might do the trick..

playtime 222
LOL @Starbase101 and Chaz

Greg Baker
I don't quite understand... when do we get to see the rest of the Millennium Falcon?😉

Starbase101
Maybe this goes beside the Falcon on the Satellite Of Love control room back wall?

JD
In the not too distant future..We have movie sign! So here's a map of my plan of attack, where the black dots are will be holes from which fiber optics will be fed up through to the windows I will be drilling, along with red leds under the launch pads, and then color changing leds inside Main mission. That's the plan anyway.

JD
Maybe it's what the Falcon would look like if she went into hyperspace before waiting for coordinates from the nav computer.. 🤔 That would end your trip real quick.

JD
I'm learning how to light my models, and this is my first attempt at creating a fiber optic light effect . It shows promise, I think. Question: should I use color changing leds for the windows or just stick with white 🤔 I'm sure I will be needing to build around 10 of these units..

Greg Baker
MORE POWER!

Starbase101
It's your build, but in my opinion the windows would look better with warm white LEDs rather than cool white.

Ben M
the lighting in the show was pretty white light though, right? although always the cockpits of the eagles viewed from outside was warm lighting for some reason

Starbase101
Looking at pic 12 of JD's photo album, they look like warm white to me (yellowish hue). Remember, at the time this show was made, they didn't have LEDs yet so small lighting like was done with filament bulbs. Either way, it's "builder's choice".

Chaz Gordon
JD, just a tip, it's a good idea to put a resistor in line with each LED, this controls the current and prevents LED burnout. The below article covers the basics and has a handy reference chart, but you also should check the characteristics of the LEDs you are using against those they have used for the example, as these will vary a lot if using "Ultra bright" or colour changing LEDs
evilmadscientist.com/2012/resistors-for-leds/

Chaz Gordon
I'd also advise rigging up a couple of test LEDs with your desired components and leaving them running for a few days, to ensure everything is good. Wouldn't want your LEDs to burn out after they've been glued in.

JD
Mmm, 🤔 more thoughts to chew on (munch munch) Good call on the light color choice SB101, I have ordered warm white leds, and more optical cable. That small bunch of fibers was 12 feet! And since I'm only using a 6v battery pack, I'm not too concerned about adding resistors yet. (cuz i'm lazy 😛) The whole effect will only be running for a few minutes at a time while I sip my morning coffee.. 😄 Also, I need a supply of wire for this sort of thing, suggestions?

Starbase101
They'll run hot and eventually burn out at 6v. Most LEDs operate at 1.5v to 3v. You should have a current-limiting resistor on each one, especially since you're sealing them up with heat-shrink tubing.

JD
You're right, I hadn't considered the heat buildup inside the heat shrink.. 🤔

Starbase101
Well, encapsulating within heatshrink isn't so much about heat buildup (although that too is an issue) - it's about being able to conveniently replace the LEDs in the future when they eventually burn out from being overdriven. Run them at their rated voltage/current and they'll last pretty much forever. Run them hot and they'll die out.

Greg Baker
Yeah... 6v will kill most LEDs right away. The resistors are a must. You might also want to set it up with a 5v USB plug. I do that with most of my LED builds and it works well. Gives you the option of plugging it in or running on a battery pack.

Chaz Gordon
I'd assumed that was a 3v pack from the pictures. As it's 6 v definitely needs the resistors. you can pick up a good selection of resistors for not a lot on ebay

JD
My color changing leds arrived, having some fun messing around..?

Torsten
Looks like a lot of fun 🙂

Greg Baker
Wooo... rainbow!

Ralf Topeters
Hey Mate, very nice topic. I looked at the Space 1999 kits myself but they are way out of my pricerange. They must have cost you a fortune. I'm curious about your progress. By the way is that Ponda Baba in pic 8 on the right side?

JD
Hey Ralf, it's been slow going with this project. It's taking me awhile to figure out the electronics and mechanics for what I have in mind with this build. Btw, you can easily find this kit on EBay like I did for around 20EUR Oh, and that's Poe Dameron standing next to the X-Wing prototype😉

Ralf Topeters
Oh shame on me. I'm not so much into the Disney trilogy so yeah now that you say it I can see him too. 👍

JD
Progress report: The main mission building is proving to be a real pain to assemble? Trying to build straight lines with warped plastic has been so much fun and rewarding.. (at least that's what I keep telling myself)

playtime 222
Is it worth building a jig/warming it in a pan of hot water and seeing if you can get the kink out?

JD
Well I've managed a lot of creative clamping using my fingers as jigs. Gripping a 10 finger bridge hold like a zen master, for 5 minutes sometimes.. ?

playtime 222
Hah! If u r using cyano, make sure you can dial someone with debonder using your nose 😄

JD
Oh, the horror.. ?

Ralf Topeters
With the UV all you need is a strobe and a DJ and the party can go on😉

Ben M
Tonight we're going to party like it's Space: 1999.

JD
Progress report: I had to move up to a larger workstation, and got me a new drill press and vise for my Dremel, along with a soldering station. I tried first drilling by hand and immediately broke 2 bits off. (You can still see them lodged in the piece) It's working awesome now, and I'm very encouraged by the early results. The fibers will be glued in place with UV resin. Now to repeat the process about 20 times..? ?

Chaz Gordon
I can atest that you can break off up to a 0.5 bit with a finger. I get pretty good results using a genuine dremel flex shaft for hand drilling. I usually use 3mm shank machine bits. They're brittle, but easy to change out and dirt cheap on eBay.

Ben M
Oh that is cool. Also didn't know about the possibility of a drill press or a flex shaft. I've just been very careful with how I hold the tool and drilling carefully.

Ralf Topeters
What a boatload of work but I'm quite sure the Outcome will look phenomenal. I'm just curious about the endproduct. 👍

Rui S
Looking great, JD. I'm in 👍

Chaz Gordon
The Dremel flex shaft is the best attachment it has. Mine is left attached to the Dremel all the time, which lives on the hanging hook on the drill stand. I wired up an industrial footswitch to an extension cord, so I can control it with my foot. Just wish Dremel would do a speed control foot switch like some sewing machines have.

playtime 222
Oooh foot switch is a good idea. And yes, not having the weight of the motor in your hand means more control.

Spanjaard
looking very interesting

Andy
Nice work!!!

Stefan Schacht
very nice so far, I take a seat.

Doug Craven
I really want to try fiber optics!

Doug Craven
Also, I'm thinking it needs and OLED screen!

JD
That sounds interesting, I've not seen any examples of an oled screen used in a build before..?
I'm experimenting with UV resin to glue in the optics, but so far I have not had the "instant cure" effect I'm looking for. I went cheap on the resin, and will try another brand. Maybe even a 3D pen to play around with

Spanjaard
Lighting looking great

JD
Thanks Spanjaard, I appreciate the encouragement! ?

Chaz Gordon
Try a UV Laser Pointer for instant cure, but be careful on large blobs, it can get real hot quick.

JD
That's funny Chaz, ..leave it to you to recommend a high intensity ultraviolet laser beam, to solve a problem! ?

Chaz Gordon
No problem that cannot be solved by a Giant "Laser"

Chaz Gordon
It's what I use whenever I use UV resin as a glue or it will be sanded later. If I'm using the resin for a high gloss finish, I use a soft start nail cure lamp raised up an extra inch, with a quick 5 second start exposure, then after a couple of minutes to rest, several 60 second exposures.

Black Baron
Cool fiber work.

Doug Craven
Nice job. Inspiring!

Starbase101
Shouldn't there be some abandoned NASA hardware "outside" on the moon's surface (presuming we really did land there), or is that all on the "other" side of the moon...?

JD
All I can say is, Stanley Kubrick' s deathbed confessional was an eye opening and jaw dropping confirmation that the Moon landings were faked... By him. How, and why a worldwide multigenerational coverup was needed. The fact I have most trouble with is, as stated by many scientists, (and NASA astronauts) is humans simply cannot travel through the Van Allen radiation belt surrounding the Earth.

wilky
There is evidence of the Moon landings and most importantly there are reflector stations on the surface that reflect Laser beams so we can measure the distance from the Earth to the Moon.
If people can't travel through the Van Allen radiation belt then exactly when arr they going to give up on people going to Mars.
Or is all human space travel going to be faked until we're extinct to maintain some pretence

Spanjaard
well said wilky

Starbase101
There is compelling evidence on both sides of the argument for "did we really go there", but it's hard to refute a huge freakin' Moonbase with regular commutes by Eagles (well, at least until that nuclear thing happened...) If JD's wall is deep enough, he could install a sparkler firework at the waste site and then ignite it in 1999......wait, already missed that one by 20 years. Oh well, the fibers still look cool anyway. 🙂

Peter G
Good work so far! Looking forward to seeing how the project develops.