Mammoet DAF - Trailer and Cargo

Bozzer
I'm in, just to see how that trailer goes! That's some ambitious project, right there, brother!

Martin Oostrom
My son printed these parts a while ago and they were in the way on my bench. So I'll be working on the cargo first and then we'll see where it goes from there truck and trailer wise.

Ben M
👀 what a cool subject…

Spanjaard
so now you have access to 3D printers, cool

Bozzer
I couldn't help wonder, what that thing is? I'm guessing that it's some kind of silo? Probably fictional, but not uncommon for unusual things to be carried around the country. I'm definitely all for unusual loads. They keep our hobby, that little bit more interesting.

Martin Oostrom
In game it is called an Industrial Condenser.

Bozzer
Some nifty little hacks, there Martin. Keep them coming 😉

Martin Oostrom
Too bad is will me a one colour beast.
I might try some preshading to see how that turns out…

bughunter
Another level of great scratch work! That will be a unique model 👍

Martin Oostrom
I had some primer left over from the Merc and the Lambo, so why not use it on this one?
And then I couldn't help myself.

Kyle DeHart
Stopping by to watch this too.

Spanjaard
unique, my friend. really looking forward the end result

Jonathon Herring
Gotta love large complex loads. Gonna watch fascinated.

Martin Oostrom
Slow progress. Today I clearcoated the cargo with Zeropaint 2k flat

Bozzer
Just wondering how things are moving, with this project?

Martin Oostrom
Stuck in traffic. There's a slow moving Beetle in front of an on old Australian Truck holding things up.

Spanjaard
LOL

Bozzer
Oddly enough, I have a road at the back of my cave, just like that? The chassis for my Australian Truck, is currently the test bed, for my resin cabs! It does look good, with double hump fenders though 😉

Martin Oostrom
The Aussie truck is done and the Beetles paint is curing.
Now building a new bed for the trailer.

Bozzer
Oh, I'm glued to my seat! Let's go!!!

Martin Oostrom
I do hope that the Mrs will bring some food and drink every now and then. It's going to take a while Bozzer.
Decision time. Do I make my own cross members or do I glue the new bed on top of the old one?

Bozzer
That's a tough call mate.
Personally, I'd go for it and build my own. However, I'd check the time, by building one, and see how long it takes me? Then I'd multiply that, by the amount of cross members, plus the rails and end pieces.
I'd do this because, my time is limited and nobody really looks at the bottom of a trailer?
That being said, I have plans to build some very interesting trailers, in the future, all from scratch!
If time is on your side, go for it. If not, straight on top of the old, works too.

Martin Oostrom
The kit bed has 'just' 21 crossmembers. I think I'll pass on recreating those.

Martin Oostrom
At ESM last Saturday, I met this guy Mark Spiers. He is supplying me with another set of axles and the wheels and such. At a reasonable price, I can get this setup look a bit more 'heavy transport'.

Bozzer
On the Idea picture, your image shows smaller wheels on the trailer, than the truck. Obviously those are offset by the gooseneck. Options for wheels should be available by 3D printing? They'd definitely be steel wheels. Revell have a Heavy Duty Trailer with a beavertail. I can measure those wheels and tyres, if you want that information? That's definitely the way I'd go, for a heavy trailer like that 👍

Martin Oostrom
💡 Yoe mean this one? Heavy Duty Trailer (Revell 07533, 1:25)
The one that's in my stash? And the size of the lower half is just big enough for my cargo? Because I got it out and measured it?
You're a genius Bozzer. It would rearrange my projects a bit, but that's been done before.

Bozzer
Lol, exactly that one, my mate!
May I suggest you make a mould of the wheels, and cast your own? There's enough knowledge in this forum, to help you? But a smart man with a 3D printer, could also help you out 😉

Martin Oostrom
The parts from Mark Spier arrived in the post today. Just like we agreed, with a couple of figurines tossed in.
Mark is a fellow modeller, who doesn't want to let parts go to waste. He has a collection of leftover parts. You can contact him on his email marxpier0512@gmail.com. He just might have the parts you need. Just give it a try.
Full disclosure: I don't get a cent from whatever he charges.

Martin Oostrom
So the switch is made to the Revell Heavy Duty trailer. I got punished right away, more ejection marks than parts. Guess what I did in the last few hours?

Martin Oostrom
Another hour, another question. I removed some wiring/piping. First I intended to replace it with 0.5mm brass rod. But it looks a bit thin. I also have 0.8mm lead wire. More to size, but a bit bendy.
What to use? And what to simulate the clasps with?

Ben M
You can use brass or even paper for the clasps

bughunter
Copper! It is harder then lead. You can glow it to get it more soft.
Foil from a whine bottle, not all are usable. Often the have two alu with clear plastic in between. I often use the removed outer blacked alu.

Bozzer
Bloody hell, I've created a monster!
I agree with bugsy, but you might also have some black plastic tubing, hidden in your other kits? Usually AMT and Revell. See if that works for you?

yngvenett
I really want to keep watching this 😮

Martin Oostrom
Brass sheet is on its way, with a selection of different rod sizes too.
Welcome to the party Yngve, normally you would be a bit late as the trailer was 2/3 done with prepping. But thanks to mr Bozzer here, I had to start all over. On a filler, scraped, sander kit no less. A monster he created indeed.

Peter Hardy
A "Mammoth" project Martin! I have to admit you are making one heck of a mess so you must be having fun! Looking forward to learning with the brass or copper!

Mr D
Nice progress 👍 extra work be worthwhile in the end ... Like the project 😁👍

Martin Oostrom
This kit needs a lot of work. The fit is decent to good. But there are so many mold lines. Each part needs cutting, filing, scraping and sanding. Slow and tedious.
Bozzer! You made me do this! 😉

Goldman
Impressive work Martin.

I have found that the best solution to the ejector pin marks Italeri and Revell like so much is CA glue (superglue) mixed with Talcum Powder. Make sure you have "real" talcum powder that contains Talc and not corn starch (apparently, recently Jonshon replaced the Talc in its products with corn starch so check the ingredients on the package). For CA I use the cheap Loctite from the supermarket. The Talc make the CA easier to sand.

I also use Dspiae self adhesive sanding strips (280 and 800 grits) with their aluminum boards to get a flat area:
Alumimium Alloy Sanding Boar..2+2pcs) (DSPIAE AS-RD15, No)
Pre-cut self adhesive Sandpa..00grain (DSPIAE MSP-400, No)

bughunter
... or fill the ejector pin marks with round discs of styrene, made with punch&die. It has the advantage of same material and no shrinking.

Martin Oostrom
Thanks for the tips mates.
Today I spent 4 hours replacing the awful wood grain on the ramps with some tread plates. It took so long because I hade to carve out enough space in a solid part of the ramps

Goldman
Time well spent. Looks good. Much more heavy duty.

Mr D
Good job on the ramps.... nice n crisp.👍👍

Spanjaard
very nice

Bozzer
Looks like time well spent, to me? Wouldn't it be great, if they had a router or some kind of milling machine, for our hobby? Something I might have a play with, in the summer.
This trailer can't be far away from primer, now? Or does Mr Martin, have a few more tricks up his sleeve? 😉

Peter Hardy
Quite impressive "carving" old mate. But, why is there always a but with me and trucks, what goes underneath?

Martin Oostrom
I'm waiting on some rods and pipes to arrive. I need those for wiring and piping. And I'm trying to find some spare air tanks
My thumb tried to paint the parts prematurely, after a knife took an unplanned detour. A band aid or two took care of that.

Kyle DeHart
I really like tread plate addition. That's was a good idea. Hopefully your thumb didn't get it too badly!!

Spanjaard
@Bozzer, you may mean MF 70 (Proxxon 27110, No) . there is even the CNC version, but it is more for metal than plastic, in my opinion

bughunter
Very clean work Martin 👍
Spanjaard is right about the mill. The rotation speed can be set between 5000 and 20000, which is too high for plastic.

Goldman
If you already have a Proxxon or similar grinder you can just get a drill stand (MB200) and the sliding table (KT70) and save some money. Will probably not be as accurate as the MF70 but I think it will be good enough for plastic. I actually considered buying this combination (I already have Proxxon FBS240 grinder) but after considering the cost and, more importantly, how often I will use this setup I decided not to.

Ben M
If you do as Goldman suggests, you can use one of those analog speed controls. I have one for my dremel that goes all the way down to zero rpm.

Bozzer
You guys have given me some food for thought. I can see myself getting busy, after the holidays. 😉

Bill Newcomer
Cool project. Following. I too am working on a trailer. Much smaller project though.