Build shots - Cousteau's Calypso in 1/125

Drilling port holes near the bow 

The moulded anchor was filed away and hole drilled 

Adding bow observation chamber windows 

Before (right) and after (left) of moulded anchor removal.  

Moulded anchor removal  

Observation chamber windows drilled out 

Drilled windows in observation chamber 

Drilling out windows and port holes in super structure parts 

Drilling out windows and port holes 

Improving capstan shape 

Improving capstan shape 

Removing molded anchor chain and drilling chain pipe 

Using brass tube for straight and crisper prop shafts 

Original helipad 

Original helipad. Actual ship has trusses underneath 

Cutting away styrene under helipad 

New trusses under helipad made from Plastruct 4.8mm styrene truss 

New trusses under helipad made from Plastruct 4.8mm styrene truss 

Milliput and wood to support display stand plinth holes 

Temporary stand for painting and construction 

Main mast structure glued together. Stuck to OOB for this.  

Hydraulic hoses made of 28 gauge beading wire 

Hydraulic hoses made of 28 gauge beading wire on Yumbo crane and winches 

Cable conduits on mast made of 28 gauge beading wire 

Adding watertight door handles made from 0.3 mm copper wire bent in a master tools grab handle/ladder rung jig. They look a bit over scaled but better than bare doors, I hope.  

Adding watertight door handles made from 0.3 mm copper wire bent in a master tools grab handle/ladder rung jig. They look a bit over scaled but better than bare doors, I hope.  

Adding watertight door handles made from 0.3 mm copper wire bent in a master tools grab handle/ladder rung jig. They look a bit over scaled but better than bare doors, I hope.  

Adding watertight door handles made from 0.3 mm copper wire bent in a master tools grab handle/ladder rung jig. They look a bit over scaled but better than bare doors, I hope.  

Anchor windlass brake controls made from 0.3 mm copper wire. They should have a wheel top but these will be better than nothing I think.  

Making a start on painting. Trying some preshading to make the white less uniform. It's humbrol enamel satin white. The question is how much preshade to leave showing.  

Making a start on painting. Trying some preshading to make the white less uniform. It's humbrol enamel satin white. The question is how much preshade to leave showing.  

Making a start on painting. Trying some preshading to make the white less uniform. It's humbrol enamel satin white. The question is how much preshade to leave showing.  

I mixed 5 parts humbrol enamel 73 to 3 parts humbrol enamel 100 for the hull red. I was just going to use humbrol 73 only, but felt it was not red enough. I'll use the humbrol 73 for the stern and deck fixings.  

Hull red on, trying to keep the right amount of preshading still visible.  

Hull red on, trying to keep the right amount of preshading still visible.  

Hull red on, trying to keep the right amount of preshading still visible.  

Insides of bullwarks are grey.  

Some dark grey for the winches.  

The upper and main deck superstructure have a grey boot line along their base. Used humbrol enamel 1 for this. Should have just masked the grey then spray white rather than doing this way round.  

Masked for black boot line spraying.  

 

Masking tape removed. Overall it worked fine, but some touching needed due to some making tape becoming loose.  

Preshading helipad.  

Getting started on superstructure detail painting.  

Keeping the mded life rings. Think I will try and print some decals to go on the life rings of 'CALYPSO TOULON' as in reference images. images.app.goo.gl/xK3dLbMRDfYJutdk6  

Adding some brass tube to replicate details not molded in kit.  

Removal of molded stanchion ropes /chains.  

Masking brown painted decks ready for antifoul red spraying. Very time consuming.  

Aft hatch cover. Not sure what the raised circle details represent.  

Aft hatch cover scribed to replace raised lines. I believe this hatch cover is antifoul red in colour, but in ref photos is often seen with a green tarp over it.  

Deck hatch painted but not weathered  

Painting the decks.  

 

Painting the decks. Attempt at deck planking effect after gloss Varnish coat.  

Helicopter pad progress. Trusses brush painted with metal cotte  

Top deck painted in antifoul red as per the scheme I am using. This maybe grey or bare wood at other periods of the ships life.  

Added a navigation light to the funnel rear as seen in reference images. Made using plastic rod and sheet and will be painted with a lense.  

First ever attempt at DIY inkjet printer decals. Mainly for vessel name and home port labels on life rings but also to add colour some other details like outboards and name plates. I have sealed them with humbrol enamel gloss Varnish which seems OK so far. Test will be how they go down on the model, how they react to decal fix and how they look.  

Happy with first ever attempt at DIY decals. Inkjet clear decal sheet sealed with humbrol enamel gloss varnish from tinlet. Need to make some life ring brackets still somehow, probably with plasticard.  

The life ring decals worked great. The decal for the brass letters on the wood name plate was not so good due to the clear backing. Will need to rethink how best to do the name plate.  

Hull weathering and matt cote application done.  

Hull weathering and matt cote application done.  

Replacing the molded anchors with these resin ones will make a big improvement to any build of this kit.  

Replacing the molded anchors with these resin ones will make a big improvement to any build of this kit.  

Hull installed on the display base so that the decks and superstructure can be securely attached without damage.  

Second deck on with Bridge house 

Main deck now glued in place. Not the greatest fit, especially at the stern, but it's progress.  

Second deck on with Bridge House. Funnel test fitted.  

Second deck on with Bridge house 

Trying to improve heli pad supports with styrene I-beam 

Trying to improve heli pad supports with styrene I-beam and some original parts.  

Trying to improve heli pad supports with styrene I-beam and some original parts.  

Trying to improve heli pad supports with styrene I-beam and some modified kit parts.  

Test fitting helipad on new helipad supports 

New pulley mounts for yumbo crane wire and master link on boom.  

Adding cables to winches and Yumbo crane. Made from 0.4mm tow cable (see project inventory).  

Yumbo crane pulley wheels cut with razor saw to allow cable to sit inside them and new pulley mount in end of boom.  

 

Adding cables to winches. Made from 0.4mm tow cable (see project inventory).  

I'm going to try and hi the hughes 300 helicopter as best I can,as it is a quite a feature of the build and point of interest. So need to keep good ref images to hand.  

Adding some ballast just in case I addweight to the tail boom through scratch building. Unlikely to tail sit though due to large floats, and I will probably glue it to the heli pad. Better safe than sorry though.  

Making seats and harnesses.  

Scratch building cockpit detail.  

Adding fuel tank straps with thin styrene.  

Added detail to fuel tanks and scratch built cockpit interior.  

Replacing tail boom with brass tube for a crisper finish.  

Old rotor blades next to the new ones. Definite improvement and not too tricky 

After removing the old rotor blades the rotor head was carefully sawn with a razor saw to make grooves for scratch built thinner blades.  

Replacement tail boom and rotor shaft support struts made of fine styrene rod and new brass tube rotor shaft 

Replacement tail boom struts and rotor shaft support struts made of fine styrene rod and new brass tube rotor shaft, tail boom and rotor blades. Note the kits parts next to it for comparison.  

Close up of Hughes 300 structure improvements.  

Scratch built tail stabiliser, tail rotor and wire rotor guard. The kit tail boom assembly is quite poor in detail and chunky 

Comparison of kit tail parts and scratch built tail section.  

Hughes 300 build pretty much finished.  

Reference for satellite antenna on bridge house. Motors would change the angle and direction of the antenna based on the ship and satellite position I think. Most photos of the calypso with this fitted have the main H-part of the anntena at an elevated angle from what I can tell.  

Modified satellite antenna using plastruct rod and kit truss mast. I drilled a hole through the kit truss frame to try and make it look thinner and more realistic. The thin x-shaped antenna elements are far from uniform but it looks OK and better than basic kit part.  

Hand wheels used.  

Plastistruct companions 

Anchor windlass with PE handwheels 

Bridge roof companion and main mast installed.  

PE ladder from white ensign (1/125 scale) on funnel  

Modified PE hand wheel for Bridge spinning window inspired by Frank Spahr 

Main mast installed. Not straight which I'm disappointed about.  

Bollards, oar holders, benches and oars added to the two kit boats.  

 

Not sure if I will add side windows at this stage 

 

 

 

Sea flea subs have styrene strip added to edges and water jet nozzles added which are missing from the kit. Hatch handle is made from toothbrush bristle type plastic. Observation holes drilled out. Some panel lines were also added with a scriber.  

Sea flea subs have styrene strip added to edges and water jet nozzles added which are missing from the kit. Hatch handle is made from toothbrush bristle type plastic. Observation holes drilled out. Some panel lines added also with a scriber 

Grey primer first then a thin white satin coat to help following yellow paint look bright.  

LA TROÏKA sledge cut back before scratch building.  

Cutting away and sanding down poorly moulded tube details. They were replaced with half round and round styrene.  

LA TROÏKA camera sledge improvements. Its an odd asymmetrical design to make it self righting.  

LA TROÏKA camera sledge improvements. Poorly moulded tube details were replaced with half round and round styrene. Camera and light from 1/72 Shinkai model kit spares.  

Grey primer is applied first then a thin white satin coat will help the yellow paint look bright.  

Screen shot of saucer sub in Brittanic expedition  

Screen shot of saucer sub in Brittanic expedition  

Screen shot of saucer sub in Brittanic expedition  

Adding some details to the SP-350. A bit of kit bashing and using wire and cut chain.  

Adding some details to the SP-350. A bit of kit bashing and using wire and cut chain.  

Grey primer is applied first then a thin white satin coat will help the yellow paint look bright.  

Diving bell. Some styrene detail added and windows drilled out. Wires scuba tube and empty scuba tank rack made form styrene strip.  

Grey primer is applied first then a thin white satin coat will help the yellow paint look bright.  

Diving bell. Some styrene detail added and windows drilled out.  

Side scan sonar being deployed from the bow main mast davit during Brittanic expedition.  

Mini subs and diving bell installed  

Mini subs and diving bell installed  

Nearly finished. Display case still to build plus some paint touch ups 

Album of finished model here scalemates.com/profi..bums&album=80165