JGSDF Type 74 Tank Winter Version

Bart Goesaert
Some have some tips on how to continue in regards to the weathering? Total noob on this...

Hunter Cummins
Could I mabey help?

Jeffrey Riedesel
Looking good. I like that kit and the Modelkasten tracks look nice.
On the weathering a couple questions,
1) what paint did you use?
2) did you seal it with a clear?

I start weathering with a pin wash with artist oil paint, but I have used acrylics also. Oil paint colors I tend to stick to are Burnt Sienna, Raw Sienna and Raw Umber. Youtube has a lot of videos by a number of modelers on weathering, not a bad place to start and see how different people do it.
Biggest tips I can give is take you time and work with light coats and build up the colors.

Bart Goesaert
@ Jeffrey: The paint I used is Tamiya and Gunze, both acrylic, and I haven't sealed the paint yet. Some guy at the club mentioned to put on a few filters first before applying a pin wash, but I don't know what colors suits best with green and brown without polluting the white to much, or maybe I can touch-up the white afterwards...

At the moment I'm preparing some test strips to test with a few colors... but building time is pretty low at the moment...

@ hunter, Your help and tips would be appreciated...

Hunter Cummins
Ok 🙂. Well a good base is tamiya X-22 clear, it will leave a nice satin finish which is ideal for weathering, apply a light brown filter overall and green filters to the green, then a dark wash with enamel ( I recommend Adam wilder products for washes filters and other effects as they make life easier.). Then so some light chipping with a sponge on the edges ( do this with a lot of restriction. Very easy to over do . With a black brown color, the. Do dust with pigments (I reccomend mig ammo or Adam wilder products).

Hunter Cummins
You can also add streaking dust and more intense dust effects with tan and brown colors enamels, and do you use oil paints?

Jeffrey Riedesel
Test strips are a great idea. Bart nothing I say you have to do it this way or else. I think with you trying different things on test strips will work great. I sometime use an old built model to test some things on or sometimes I just try it. Yeah sometimes the model ends up a sacrifice.

Bart Goesaert
thx for the tips, so before everything commences first thing to do is to seal the model, or first to apply a filter, then sealing and then washes?

Hunter Cummins
Bart, best way is clear with an ACRYLIC varnish (like I said the tamiya X-22 clear is best and easiest). So clear, filters, let dry for a day, then washes, then clean up washes, then let dry fr a day, then continue with other techniques I or anyone else has said. Drying time is always an important factor

Jeffrey Riedesel
Yes seal it first.

John Van Kooten
I have a very different method 🙂

I never use any varnish layers between anything (except with decals). What I do is let the paint CURE before moving on to the next layer / operation.
There's a huge difference between letting paint dry and letting it cure. Curing means you will give the paint time to fully harden (which sometimes takes several days, depending on the used product), so it will take longer to finish the model. But it entirely removes the need for any varnish layers.

So if you want to finish your model somewhat faster, use varnish before moving on to the next major operation (filters is a major operation!).

However, be aware that you would still need to let the varnish layer dry anyway as well. So I decided (a long time ago) on letting the paint sit longer and let it cure, instead of waiting for both the paint and the varnish layer to dry.
It's strictly personal preference of course. I don't like the additional layers of varnish and I don't need them either. Plus, every layer of varnish comes with the risk of ruining your model if it goes bad and starts going cloudy / yellow. I simply avoid all of that by not using it at all 🙂

There is one big advantage in using varnish layers though: it allows you to correct / remove the layers you put on top of it (to a certain extent).
On the other hand, the same is pretty much true if the paint has truly cured because at that point it has hardened enough to be able to withstand removal by means of solvents / acrylics. So anything "freshly" painted will get removed while the cured layer stays in place perfectly.

So anyway, just thought I'd give you a heads up on this alternative method, for you consideration 👍

Jan Hazes
Late reply as usual. I would add a layer of (acrylic) varnish or klear between layers of weathering when using artist oils. Or you end up blending it all together because the terpentine will affect previous work. Just my 2 cents.