T-90 - Obr. 1992 (Mod. 1992)
Komentáře
11 16 June 2019, 19:26
Ingo F
While the Typhoon is drying right now, i decided not to waste any time and start a new project. This time i will build an early T-90 from 1992. Trumpeter released an suitable kit including paint pattern and decals for the tank that i have as the project thumbnail and want to build. Unfortunately you have to do some corrections to build the demo vehicle from 1992. I will pick out the steps from the kit instruction where you have to do the modifications.
Here the changes so far:
Step 1: Omit the parts C4, C20 and C21 for the part C35 (lower glacis plate) Fill the hole for C4.
Step 2: Dozer blade is a wrong one. You have to correct it by removing both bulges right and left or replace it whit a right one. I replaced it whit one from the spare box.
Step 6: The gap between the armor F3 and G27on the upper glacis plate is too wide. (picture 1) On the real vehicle there is almost no gap. I added 0,5mm plastic strip and sanded it to the right size. The notch in the middle of the F3 is going right to the edge of the plate. Use a sharp hobby knife to extend it.
Omit part G15 and replace E11 with E12.
Thats all so far.
While the Typhoon is drying right now, i decided not to waste any time and start a new project. This time i will build an early T-90 from 1992. Trumpeter released an suitable kit including paint pattern and decals for the tank that i have as the project thumbnail and want to build. Unfortunately you have to do some corrections to build the demo vehicle from 1992. I will pick out the steps from the kit instruction where you have to do the modifications.
Here the changes so far:
Step 1: Omit the parts C4, C20 and C21 for the part C35 (lower glacis plate) Fill the hole for C4.
Step 2: Dozer blade is a wrong one. You have to correct it by removing both bulges right and left or replace it whit a right one. I replaced it whit one from the spare box.
Step 6: The gap between the armor F3 and G27on the upper glacis plate is too wide. (picture 1) On the real vehicle there is almost no gap. I added 0,5mm plastic strip and sanded it to the right size. The notch in the middle of the F3 is going right to the edge of the plate. Use a sharp hobby knife to extend it.
Omit part G15 and replace E11 with E12.
Thats all so far.
16 June 2019, 20:04
Ingo F
Hey James welcome to this build. 🙂
The Typhoon is doing great and drying after a few coats of paint. 😄
Hey James welcome to this build. 🙂
The Typhoon is doing great and drying after a few coats of paint. 😄
16 June 2019, 20:06
Ingo F
Finished the build today. Here the second part of the modifications that were done:
Step 7: Omit the part C24 or the old style exhaust wont fit.
Step 8: The rear plate needs to be backdated to hold the old T-72 spare tracks. You have to close all the holes except the ones for towing hooks and barrel holder. You can use part A10 to hold the spare tracks.
I modified the barrel holder as there are no barrels on the original demonstrator tank.
Step 10: Replace the T-90 style tracks with the T-72 tracks. This part is a little bit tricky. You need the T-72 style sprocket wheels. The T-72 tracks wont fit the T-90 sprockets. You can use one from Trumpeter T-72 A/B (except the T-72 Mod 1990) kits or from Tamiya T-72 kit.
Step 11: Part C27 was used instead of C28 as there is no refueling line for the barrels.
Step 12: Fit the old style exhaust. I found one in my spare box from the previous T-72 builds and didnt need to use the one from Miniarm.
Thats all.
Finished the build today. Here the second part of the modifications that were done:
Step 7: Omit the part C24 or the old style exhaust wont fit.
Step 8: The rear plate needs to be backdated to hold the old T-72 spare tracks. You have to close all the holes except the ones for towing hooks and barrel holder. You can use part A10 to hold the spare tracks.
I modified the barrel holder as there are no barrels on the original demonstrator tank.
Step 10: Replace the T-90 style tracks with the T-72 tracks. This part is a little bit tricky. You need the T-72 style sprocket wheels. The T-72 tracks wont fit the T-90 sprockets. You can use one from Trumpeter T-72 A/B (except the T-72 Mod 1990) kits or from Tamiya T-72 kit.
Step 11: Part C27 was used instead of C28 as there is no refueling line for the barrels.
Step 12: Fit the old style exhaust. I found one in my spare box from the previous T-72 builds and didnt need to use the one from Miniarm.
Thats all.
1 July 2019, 20:01
Ingo F
Thanks mate. 🙂
The lower hull is already primed and will receive an coat of green tomorrow. After that i can glue the fenders into place as they are only fixed with blue tack on the pictures. Same goes for the boxes on the turret.
Thanks mate. 🙂
The lower hull is already primed and will receive an coat of green tomorrow. After that i can glue the fenders into place as they are only fixed with blue tack on the pictures. Same goes for the boxes on the turret.
1 July 2019, 20:12
Jerry Branca
Ingo, that's a superb T-90 build, construction, painting, weathering, everything! I built Trumpy's T-72B a few years ago, and I know those PE radiation cladding discs can drive you insane, so again, good job!
Ingo, that's a superb T-90 build, construction, painting, weathering, everything! I built Trumpy's T-72B a few years ago, and I know those PE radiation cladding discs can drive you insane, so again, good job!
24 January 2021, 09:03
Ingo F
Thank you Jerry! 🙂 Yeah, this PE discs are really pain in the *** but after you build 3-4 of this tanks, they are no challenge anymore. 😄
Thank you Jerry! 🙂 Yeah, this PE discs are really pain in the *** but after you build 3-4 of this tanks, they are no challenge anymore. 😄
24 January 2021, 10:20